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A Day Trip to: Cambridge

8/28/2022

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The Bridge of Sighs lived up to its name- but do you know the real reason for it's label? Constructed after it's inspiration in Venice- where prisoners would be taken across and get one last look at their beautiful city before being taken and sentenced to their fate on the other side. One would understand why they would *sigh*.

As in American, I try to think back to a time when we learned about the prestigious universities around the world- the Ivy Leagues. Did we see them in film and read about them in social studies? Was it by word of mouth? Their prestige preceded them-hundreds of years of fostering famous students who discovered something and changed the world. It definitely shifted my world. You will see that it's no surprise that my first visit was major inspiration for my final tailoring collection- in terms of history, also of architectural lines, and color. Oh the color. 

As you probably realize by now, I tend to be more interested in visiting English cities than American, and so after moving here, I naturally wanted to experience the fame of Oxford and Cambridge. Now seeing both, they each have incredible beauty that only can be described as an English gothic romance, a trend that every other town here seems to follow and you NEVER get tired of, but I believe both universities deserve their own posts, as they can't truly compare without compromising their individual aesthetics.

Cambridge lies about an hour north of London by train- the best way to travel. The station sits about a 20 minute walk from central- which is a bit of a hike compared to other towns, but is a nice warm up to slowly get introduced to the town from modern to olden. My first experience, and what I recommend along with every other blog in site- take a punting trip- but do it first thing. Buy your tickets online beforehand, from any of the great companies all packed together near the Cam river in town- and glide on the calm waters of the English Venice. The guides vary- a good one will tell you a lot of historical and trivial facts that make the trip fantastic, and others might respect the peace a bit. Both are nice options, but I prefer learning more (as always).  The trip is about an hour, taking you through a back channel of the schools you don't see walking, and unless you are a student. The Bridge of Sighs, St. John's College, Trinity College and the Wren Library, the Mathematical Bridge, Kings College and Chapel, and countless other priceless places of dark romantic beauty- all aptly draped in English Ivy. In summer, it's all green and lush, and in fall, they turn the most gorgeous shade of wine- I recommend a fall visit. You have to see to believe. 

Fall is also best because school is in session- so students are walking around and making it feel more authentic. Also in session then is the Choir- and therefore evensong. Free to attend, evensong is the best way to see in and experience Kings College Chapel. I've been in my fair share of churches- but when I walked in there and my head inevitably turned up- my jaw dropped. You have to see it to believe it. Matched with the choirs song, seeing the Chapel for it's true purpose- echoing hundreds of years of song, history, and life, it was a life experience to be had. It was built by Henry VI- his passion for education and culture outmatched his desire to rule a country- and he wasn't great at looking kingly. This incurred the War of the Roses and the inevitable start of the Tudor Dynasty, who ruled majestically through dress and its power and symbolism. Nevertheless Henry VI- left us Cambridge and Eton, among others. Bless him.

Wandering is the best option for this majestic college town- seeing Newton's Apple tree (still producing apples), eating a Chelsea bun at Fitzbillies, and gelato at Jack's. Pop into the Cambridge Press bookshop if you are interested in reading very niche academic research to broaden your mind- and see the oldest bookshop site in the UK that prints and publishes it's own. For an art and history injection, walk down to the Fitzwilliam Museum- a small but powerful mix of objects in a beautiful large gilded building. My personal favorite was visiting the new portrait of Will and Kate- aptly the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge. It was excellently done and a feast for the eyes (but I'm a monarchist and a little biased). 

There's lots more to see and feel in this town- as a student you can get into many colleges and see what the public can't. When I have visited- I feel a familiar sense of comfort and belonging I only tend to feel when a place has a part of my future (we will see!), and the beauty of this town is wrapped around my soul. Only a day here feels lovely, but keeps you wanting more. The charm, history, and beauty lingers in every corner and in every season- from the wispy willows you pass under punting, to the gothic towers, the cobblestone streets, and the smell of academia. It's, as most corners of England, not to be missed. 
The incredible ivy covering the back of St. John's College! All green here...
And an incredible red into fall. Just breathtaking!
Spotting Tudor Architecture is a favorite pastime of mine.
Maddie and I enjoying the punting experience, and learning lots from out guide behind us.
Words to live by.
Newton's Apple tree- on the sight where he discovered the idea of gravity.
Fall and Cambridge. Ahh.
In awe of King College Chapel- built by Henry VI- we owe the foundation of this school to him and his passion for education.
This place- I tell you. I craned my neck the whole time.
The COLOR! Major inspiration for my tailoring collection- fittingly made for the Duchess of Cambridge.
The Fitzwilliam Musuem. grand but small, excellent collection!
A personal highlight- seeing this recent portrait. The couple of the 21st century, and estatic that she chose this dress. Glittering and sensational- with a John Singer Sargent feel- of course I'm head over heels.
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A Day trip to: Rye and camber sands

8/16/2022

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All smiles to be on this ancient street- and around any kind of Tudor architecture. Isn't the ivy just incredible?

​Nestled in the Southern coastline of England is historically significant Rye, a town established officially in 1289 by King Edward I, but with roots much older than that. It's position on the English coastline means that its been a significant trading port and merchant post for well over a thousand years, and was likely a port and storage for goods like iron even to the Romans. Rye would have been right on the water then, but now- it sits back about two miles from the coast, but still close enough to smell the fresh air and have the seaside aesthetic. 

Rye is the definition of quaint. Winding cobblestone street and side passages, ancient gates and towers of stone, uneven houses that utter pure charm and hundreds of years of stories. It's storybook England in a nutshell. The clashing of architectures from several hundred years can be seen door to door- and the preservation of history is remarkable to say the least. The English have such a respect for preservation and thank goodness- where else do you see a home that casually has "rebuilt 1420" on its facade? For reference- that's 70 years before Columbus set sail and discovered America. 

It's no wonder I'm an Anglophile over American. I've always been a history nut- but the UK has brought out this passion more than I ever had interest in America. I love all history- including America's brief 250 years- but England itself goes back 1000 years-and was further under the Saxons, Vikings, Romans, and hunter/gatherer societies for thousands of years (think Stonehenge). So yea- history nut me squeals a little at the sight of anything remotely old. 

Back to Rye (I very easily become sidetracked with history). There's lots to see, even though it's such a small town. It's customary to take your time and truly explore, that's the English way-and therefore the best option! Probably most famous in the town is Mermaid Street- its the one you see most of Instagram posts- and absolutely is worth exploring and snapping some pictures. But don't forget- you don't need a photo of every single detail. Live in the moment- and learn to put away your phone (its not natural to us- but it's life changing when you do). The steep street features Tudor architecture, trailing ivy, and uneven stones. Perfection. The Mermaid Inn is famously one of the oldest hotel/pubs, with cellars dating back to 1156, when the first structure was probably built. The current structure is from 1420- and still operational. Families still live in homes dotted all down the street- which makes the row more authentic and lovely. 
Every twist and turn is worth walking- all roads pretty much connect with each other- and along walks you will see the Ypres Tower, Landgate, and views out to the sea. The antique shops are the real deal- this can take you a day alone for a purpose trip! Cafes, independent shops, and pubs everywhere are welcome distractions, and since this is a tourist hub- the town is empty by the end of the day-and that's when its its most charming. I recommend staying the night if you can to experience this calm when everyone has returned to London. You won't regret it. Wander into a pub and have a pint- sit and smell the air- close your eyes and imagine the sounds of merchants bustling up and down the streets 500 years ago. Fully immerse yourself in what life might have been like. Take another sip, and live in the moment.  

A quick bus ride, or car if you have one, away is Camber Sands. The wide, bright, sprawling dune beaches are an incredible movie-scene sight. Sand beaches on the southern coast aren't the norm- so the exceptional beauty of this one is appreciated. Have a wander- eat an ice cream cone- and dip your toes in the Channel. Imagine seeing the Romans on their way to dock just ahead at Rye. The Earth has changed little- and we see many of the same sights they saw-albeit without the changes of technology. Breathe it all in. 

You can easily take a train between London and Rye in about 1/1.5 hours each way, depending on which line you take. Rye is historic England in a nutshell- and not to be missed. 
1420. America is so new!
The black and white lines and juxtaposed greenery are heavenly, love the Englishness of it all!
A lovely pub, with balcony, and characteristic red telephone booth. No, those aren't just in London!
The rose's color and smell was sublime. Against that black and white, anything natural stands out so beautifully. The Tudors knew how to showcase nature.
Exploring the dunes at Camber Sands-feeling like I'm in a Monet painting.
Beach as far as the eye can see.
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HCP- Henry's Playground and Bridgerton Famous

8/8/2022

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Always worth looking up at palaces- your head goes that way no matter what! This incredible staircase is unrivaled.
If you don't know of Hampton Court Palace in it's own right, then it will definitely seem familiar by its historic use. Built by Cardinal Wolsey for himself in the early 1500s, it was then given (not really willingly) to his boss and king, the infamous Henry VIII as Wolsey fell from favor. HCP is a Tudor masterpiece, yet only the Great Hall, Chapel, and some state rooms survive (thankfully at least that) as Tudor styles fell out of fashion and the Baroque palace replaced much of it, built by the Georgians. Today, it's a wonderful clash of two architectures that amazingly work together. This is HCP's true worth- an incredible time capsule of a few hundred years of English power. The palace is a true favorite of mine (I've been three times)- set outside London but easily accessible, it's grandeur and opulence told by a multitude of kings and queens gives us a glimpse into true wealth and how its definition has changed over hundreds of years. 
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To me, palaces like HCP are the epitome of wealth- but society now holds it in large modern houses, sports cars, social media followers, and private holiday locations. How have we been driven to this change? With the fall of many of Europes great monarchs and the rise of the power of the people, kings, palaces, and coronations faded away. As a traditionalist, I long for the old days, but as a realist, I know in many ways, we are better off now.

But still- the artistic beauty and decoration found in these times past are a force to be reckoned with. These palaces also represent lost crafts and skills- tapestry weavers, master ceiling painters, intricate wood carvers, and baroque gold sculptors that are dwindling. These wealthy icons supported the arts in ways that are now not respected as much. Kings and emperors had incredible, unbelievable visions that seemed impossible to their courtiers, and still, hundreds of years later, some of these visions still stand, inspiring us all. I don't imagine many of them would ever think their dreams would last so long for us to see.

These places wouldn't be here without the constant conservation efforts of people who do respect the past, and thank goodness we aren't short of them! I personally am very driven to be involved in heritage management in my lifetime- whether it be fashion, interiors, art, or education of it, I see it as a part of my future. It's incredibly important that these many places across the globe tell stories of the past to better understand where we are now, but also revel in the glory of amazing ancestors who did their best to enjoy life, just like us. 

Beside the many interiors and grand staircases, HCP boasts many gardens of different styles- including the oldest puzzle maze in England, the Yew Tree gardens (Downton Abbey and Belgravia famous, to name just two), and the Privy Garden and Fountain Court, recently featured in Netflix's Bridgerton Season 2. As a massive Bridgerton fan myself, it's insane to walk in the footsteps of not just monarchs, but also great filming locations with captivating storylines. There is barely a period drama I haven't or wouldn't watch, so these locations all across the UK hold double love and fascination for me, in historical and cinematic obsession. 

You can't keep me away from a historic site for long- they feed my soul in ways I still don't understand. I mean, how is it possible for you to not ooh and ahh in their presence? They drive my passions and thoughts- and it's always so much more joyful to experience them with people who feel the same. History is the coolest thing there is- and nobody can tell me otherwise. 
The Fountain Court, square, with symmetric greenery, flowers, and incredible architecture. Ahh.
A perfect natural frame-showing off the Pond Garden and the Tudor Palace in the background.
The insane original Tudor Great Hall ceiling- made by Henry and Anne. Wow, in person, believe me.
The Georgian facade framing the Privy Garden. Filmed in Bridgerton, as you might recognize!
The original Tudor palace greets you as you walk up. The red brick and chimney stacks are unique and stuck in time.
Me, sitting in the place of honor at the Great Hall, aka Henry and Anne's spot, so I'm naturally all smiles.
Photogenic in every corner.
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England's Most Sacred Church

8/4/2022

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On everyones list when visiting London, since its creation, has naturally been the glorious and sacred Westminster Abbey. Time has shifted the purpose of societies visit- for hundreds of years, it was a sacred place of pilgrimage, worship, prayers, coronations, and weddings. Now, while all those things still happen, nothing keeps it going and the numbers in and out like tourism. 
I've been to the Abbey three times now- and while it was just as amazing every time I come back- this time gave me a new perspective. I've visited about 50 churches at least in the UK and Europe now- all historic in their own right, and as a Christian I view them in a completely different light to those who aren't religious. Smaller houses with less fame are places of quiet and solace. They are the path less taken, and I can say that when you have seen one, you haven't seen them all. Every one is unique and holds different treasures from the next. The styles might be similar, but they are all masterpieces none the less- considering the times they were built in. But I diverge. The Abbey, like Notre Dame- is so famous and legendary- that  tourists now, more than ever- seem to view it as an attraction more than a place of God, as most communities now don't hold God at the center of life. With the constant secularization of society, tourists walk into these houses with a purpose to check it off their list- rather that respect it for its true purpose. I understand that it is hard to respect the nature of it when you have had no contact with faith and therefore don't know the customs or practices- but shouldn't there be a line drawn in how to inherently act in such a sacred space?
This trip, I had the chance to visit the grave of St. Edward the Confessor- the founder of the Abbey and one of Englands first monarchs. His grave is in the holiest part of the church- behind the high alter- and its so fragile that only few can see it- for prayers under permission. I happened to visit when there was such a call to prayer- and therefore witnessed the incredible space. It was small and crescent shaped, surrounded in glory by the coffins of some of Englands earliest kings and queens, the Plantagenets- and in the center, the tomb of Edward himself. The ancient stone was browned beyond compare- from centuries of people touching and praying at its base. While I'm not from Church of England, it's similar enough to my denomination that I said the prayers and reveled in the sight of such a holy place- one that people of all walks of life have visited for almost a thousand years. As a history buff- sitting next to Eleanor of Castile and Henry V, in the holiest part of this grand Abbey, was beyond words. 
Understandably, this area is not for all tourists, unless they ask. Rightly so, the Abbey must protect this space at all costs- but walking into the alcoves of the rest of the church- and their incredibly worn flooring and stone- you wonder at the cost of tourism. These places bring people into contact with God, when they might have no contact beforehand- but they also create damage beyond repair- at young children running their hands over centuries old relics. My own pilgrimage is to the tomb of Elizabeth I- a true place of inspiration and reflection both. As I sat and took a moment to think of her legacy- two children leaned up against the iron rail and fiddled with the intricate roses on the gate- all while the parents watched on. Where has the respect gone?
Ironically, beneath her grave, along with her sister Mary, there reads a plaque- underscoring the sacrifice and terror of the Reformation- and how England was at it's most divided be religion. For a quick recap- both Queens' father, the infamous Henry VIII, spilt with the Catholic Church and created the Church of England so we could divorce is first wife, Katherine of Aragon, Mary's mother, to marry Anne Boleyn, Elizabeth's mother. This spilt sent shockwaves through the world and changed the face of England forever. The struggle between the two daughters was fierce( Mary Catholic, Elizabeth Protestant)- as they both had their time on the throne. Lucky for many, Mary's was short- as her reign was marked with malicious bloodshed to bring Catholicism back and kill off Protestants. The plaque commemorates this awful time for England, and also brings to light the change in morals and values. It takes us back to a time when faith was so strong in the lives of the many that people willingly died for it. While no doubt this still happens now in less enlightened nations, this concept brings about a double edged sword- we have freedom of religion and there is tolerance for all faiths in most of society, but at the same time, we have come to disrespect the values millions died for. Many of us have never had to live through such a turbulent world. With education and deference, this can be brought back, for the good of the preservation of history, and hopefulness that it doesn't repeat itself in such a bloody way. 
All grievances aside, I can safely say that I'm extremely glad for my faith upbringing- not only as the core of my values, but also out of respect for religion. One day, when I get to visit a mosque, as I would love to experience- I might not know the customs, but I would ask questions and hold the highest regard to respect their ways. If the world keeps falling by the wayside- where will we be without this common sense of decency? The church has become an antiquated object to most- an attraction that seems to fall more into the past as our values and lives change. Having every faith that people will preserve this for generations to come is the best we can pray for. 

The incredible ceilings above Elizabeth's tomb inside her burial alcove of the Tudor masterpiece, the Lady Chapel.
Liz, resting in eternal piece.
The beautiful plaque, lead to rest in the same spot as the two religious monarchs- symbolizing a hope for the end of reilgious turmoil.
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