The Bridge of Sighs lived up to its name- but do you know the real reason for it's label? Constructed after it's inspiration in Venice- where prisoners would be taken across and get one last look at their beautiful city before being taken and sentenced to their fate on the other side. One would understand why they would *sigh*. As in American, I try to think back to a time when we learned about the prestigious universities around the world- the Ivy Leagues. Did we see them in film and read about them in social studies? Was it by word of mouth? Their prestige preceded them-hundreds of years of fostering famous students who discovered something and changed the world. It definitely shifted my world. You will see that it's no surprise that my first visit was major inspiration for my final tailoring collection- in terms of history, also of architectural lines, and color. Oh the color. As you probably realize by now, I tend to be more interested in visiting English cities than American, and so after moving here, I naturally wanted to experience the fame of Oxford and Cambridge. Now seeing both, they each have incredible beauty that only can be described as an English gothic romance, a trend that every other town here seems to follow and you NEVER get tired of, but I believe both universities deserve their own posts, as they can't truly compare without compromising their individual aesthetics. Cambridge lies about an hour north of London by train- the best way to travel. The station sits about a 20 minute walk from central- which is a bit of a hike compared to other towns, but is a nice warm up to slowly get introduced to the town from modern to olden. My first experience, and what I recommend along with every other blog in site- take a punting trip- but do it first thing. Buy your tickets online beforehand, from any of the great companies all packed together near the Cam river in town- and glide on the calm waters of the English Venice. The guides vary- a good one will tell you a lot of historical and trivial facts that make the trip fantastic, and others might respect the peace a bit. Both are nice options, but I prefer learning more (as always). The trip is about an hour, taking you through a back channel of the schools you don't see walking, and unless you are a student. The Bridge of Sighs, St. John's College, Trinity College and the Wren Library, the Mathematical Bridge, Kings College and Chapel, and countless other priceless places of dark romantic beauty- all aptly draped in English Ivy. In summer, it's all green and lush, and in fall, they turn the most gorgeous shade of wine- I recommend a fall visit. You have to see to believe. Fall is also best because school is in session- so students are walking around and making it feel more authentic. Also in session then is the Choir- and therefore evensong. Free to attend, evensong is the best way to see in and experience Kings College Chapel. I've been in my fair share of churches- but when I walked in there and my head inevitably turned up- my jaw dropped. You have to see it to believe it. Matched with the choirs song, seeing the Chapel for it's true purpose- echoing hundreds of years of song, history, and life, it was a life experience to be had. It was built by Henry VI- his passion for education and culture outmatched his desire to rule a country- and he wasn't great at looking kingly. This incurred the War of the Roses and the inevitable start of the Tudor Dynasty, who ruled majestically through dress and its power and symbolism. Nevertheless Henry VI- left us Cambridge and Eton, among others. Bless him. Wandering is the best option for this majestic college town- seeing Newton's Apple tree (still producing apples), eating a Chelsea bun at Fitzbillies, and gelato at Jack's. Pop into the Cambridge Press bookshop if you are interested in reading very niche academic research to broaden your mind- and see the oldest bookshop site in the UK that prints and publishes it's own. For an art and history injection, walk down to the Fitzwilliam Museum- a small but powerful mix of objects in a beautiful large gilded building. My personal favorite was visiting the new portrait of Will and Kate- aptly the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge. It was excellently done and a feast for the eyes (but I'm a monarchist and a little biased). There's lots more to see and feel in this town- as a student you can get into many colleges and see what the public can't. When I have visited- I feel a familiar sense of comfort and belonging I only tend to feel when a place has a part of my future (we will see!), and the beauty of this town is wrapped around my soul. Only a day here feels lovely, but keeps you wanting more. The charm, history, and beauty lingers in every corner and in every season- from the wispy willows you pass under punting, to the gothic towers, the cobblestone streets, and the smell of academia. It's, as most corners of England, not to be missed.
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Nestled in the Southern coastline of England is historically significant Rye, a town established officially in 1289 by King Edward I, but with roots much older than that. It's position on the English coastline means that its been a significant trading port and merchant post for well over a thousand years, and was likely a port and storage for goods like iron even to the Romans. Rye would have been right on the water then, but now- it sits back about two miles from the coast, but still close enough to smell the fresh air and have the seaside aesthetic. Rye is the definition of quaint. Winding cobblestone street and side passages, ancient gates and towers of stone, uneven houses that utter pure charm and hundreds of years of stories. It's storybook England in a nutshell. The clashing of architectures from several hundred years can be seen door to door- and the preservation of history is remarkable to say the least. The English have such a respect for preservation and thank goodness- where else do you see a home that casually has "rebuilt 1420" on its facade? For reference- that's 70 years before Columbus set sail and discovered America. It's no wonder I'm an Anglophile over American. I've always been a history nut- but the UK has brought out this passion more than I ever had interest in America. I love all history- including America's brief 250 years- but England itself goes back 1000 years-and was further under the Saxons, Vikings, Romans, and hunter/gatherer societies for thousands of years (think Stonehenge). So yea- history nut me squeals a little at the sight of anything remotely old. Back to Rye (I very easily become sidetracked with history). There's lots to see, even though it's such a small town. It's customary to take your time and truly explore, that's the English way-and therefore the best option! Probably most famous in the town is Mermaid Street- its the one you see most of Instagram posts- and absolutely is worth exploring and snapping some pictures. But don't forget- you don't need a photo of every single detail. Live in the moment- and learn to put away your phone (its not natural to us- but it's life changing when you do). The steep street features Tudor architecture, trailing ivy, and uneven stones. Perfection. The Mermaid Inn is famously one of the oldest hotel/pubs, with cellars dating back to 1156, when the first structure was probably built. The current structure is from 1420- and still operational. Families still live in homes dotted all down the street- which makes the row more authentic and lovely. Every twist and turn is worth walking- all roads pretty much connect with each other- and along walks you will see the Ypres Tower, Landgate, and views out to the sea. The antique shops are the real deal- this can take you a day alone for a purpose trip! Cafes, independent shops, and pubs everywhere are welcome distractions, and since this is a tourist hub- the town is empty by the end of the day-and that's when its its most charming. I recommend staying the night if you can to experience this calm when everyone has returned to London. You won't regret it. Wander into a pub and have a pint- sit and smell the air- close your eyes and imagine the sounds of merchants bustling up and down the streets 500 years ago. Fully immerse yourself in what life might have been like. Take another sip, and live in the moment. A quick bus ride, or car if you have one, away is Camber Sands. The wide, bright, sprawling dune beaches are an incredible movie-scene sight. Sand beaches on the southern coast aren't the norm- so the exceptional beauty of this one is appreciated. Have a wander- eat an ice cream cone- and dip your toes in the Channel. Imagine seeing the Romans on their way to dock just ahead at Rye. The Earth has changed little- and we see many of the same sights they saw-albeit without the changes of technology. Breathe it all in. You can easily take a train between London and Rye in about 1/1.5 hours each way, depending on which line you take. Rye is historic England in a nutshell- and not to be missed. |
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