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While I’m proud to say that most of my resolutions have been fulfilled so far, the one where I write one blog a week has yet to be fulfilled until now. And I think it opportune to start 2023 with my long-awaited London list. I’ve been in London for three years, and I’ve seen and done a lot. While Instagram has been the photographic proof of this journey, it’s high time I also write it all down. So I’m finally doing it- jam packed into one, large list and comprehensive guide. Ok, so that might be overreaching. It’s likely going to have a few parts… Here it is world: Hayley’s London List, Part I. I should start by saying that since I’m inclined towards the history, arts, culture, and creative side of things, the list is long, and catered to my tastes and interests. London has a plethora of these topics. Not everything will be for you, but I hope you can pick and choose to make your own way about when you visit, or even see your own backyard differently, fellow Londoners! There’s lots to see that makes this city the best in the world- touristy or not. (And p.s.- the touristy bits are (almost) all totally worth it too- London wouldn’t be London without them!) I think it fitting to start with a few icons- the Tower of London and Tower Bridge. Fittingly, these are the beginning of my recommended walking tour for anyone, Londoner or first-time tourist alike, to see many of the top sights- in one afternoon if you are smacked for time. Situated right next to each other, these two landmarks form the most incredible marriage into the historic skyline, and what makes it all the more incredible is that they are not similar in age at all. While the Tower dates from 1066 and William the Conqueror (more on that in a minute), the Bridge is from the late 1800s- a staggering 800 years apart. The Bridge looks older, and you naturally assume it is due to the grey stone medievalesque towers that blend so well with the Tower, but the steel blue beams are what give it away as a product of the Industrial Revolution. This perfect cohesion of old and new, and its placement next to one of the oldest and most historic places in the world, is what makes this site and these two structures beyond captivating and enthralling to us now, and throughout time. While I will continue with the walking tour in a bit- I want to give the Tower it’s moment. I could write a whole post just on the tower, but I have decided to keep it short(er) and sweet right here. My advice on the Tower of London: go inside. You will not regret it. Give yourself at least a full afternoon, if not the day. There is something for everyone’s interests. Massive, glorious, and the definition of historic, you enter the Tower through a gate dating back to 1280- from across a bridge over a moat, like we all dreamed about as kids. Already, I’m guessing you are intrigued. You are soon transported into another world. Besides the occasional bin or modern signage, everything you are surrounded by is OLD. Stone archways, stone towers, cobblestone roads, iron gates, stone steps, archers’ peepholes, and ok, the occasional modern drainpipe- but also, ancient ones too. Makes you feel like Friar Tuck and Robin Hood are about to pop around the corner, or maybe even greedy King John. The expert curators guide you through tower by tower, room by room, dishing you story upon story and recreating spaces best to certain times. If those walls could talk, they would have better stories than any of us. The sheer size of the place- including the multiple wall sections, their depth, and and length of wall walks connecting it all would have dwarfed other buildings around it for most of history. Each little bit was added on through time, creating the most incredible architectural wonder of 1000 years, all on one site. At the center of it all is The White Tower, the oldest piece of the puzzle. Built by William the Conqueror, the disputed first officially King of England and the beginning of the monarchy that we have had since, built it as a stronghold in the late 1000s, after he won his throne and united the English nations. Walking up the monstrous wooden steps, and slowly walking through that Tower- I have goosebumps writing this. This Tower has stood for 1000 years much unchanged, with the world and structure that growing and changing all around it. It makes it magnificent and awe-inspiring to all who gaze at it, walk through it, touch the timbers within, and smell the history surrounding it. If that doesn’t do it for you, how do jewels sound? Incredible, rare, shining, and glorious state crowns, tiaras, scepters, orbs, dinnerware, ceremonial pieces of priceless value, most of which are surrounded by people movers, so you don’t breathe on them too long, and so that everyone gets their turn. Hit with glittering lights, every piece sparkles with centuries of glamour and secret conversations we will never know. The space was built to impress. Still not quite your cup of tea? In the courtyard, which as it happens is gorgeous and tranquil, a spot marks the countless beheadings and executions that look place over the centuries. In a small chapel behind, many of these victims, as well as many people of importance, are buried. You can just feel an incredible presence here, even if you aren’t religious. That chapel has seen it all. If you have any unanswered questions, the best part of the Tower awaits- the Beefeaters. Formally called the Yeoman of the Guard, they are blessed with the task of guarding the tower and have for centuries. They wear uniforms designed from Henry VIII himself, and although made of modern materials, they are still as accurate as possible and make the place the most authentic it could be. They add a living historical presence there, as they also literally live on the grounds with their families and have to have 26 years distinguished military service to have the post. The most incredible honor I can think of (that almost makes me want to join the military), and they are there to tell you stories, share histories, and make the Tower what it is. The whole experience is a must, and if I haven’t convinced you with all this, I don’t know what else to say. Oh, maybe it’s the views that will do it for you? A picture says a thousand words that I can’t, so see attached. I think it’s time we continue… and while I’m sure I’ve already convinced you to visit London if you haven’t, I’ve only just begun. Oof. Upon leaving the Tower, try to exit onto the river. The Riverfront here is so nice and picturesque, with City Hall (the egg-shaped building in front of you), the Bridge, the HMS Belfast (the bloody massive ship you can’t miss), the Shard (the big pointy skyscraper that dwarfs all), and of course, the unmissable Thames. Enjoy the view for a while with fish and chips from a little popup cart or food truck. (Try) to process the history you have just encountered and prepare for loads more (it seems impossible, but you don’t have a choice). Walk towards the Bridge and there should be steps carved in that take you up to road level. Take in the gorgeous blue beams and slowly cross to the Southbank, taking your time. An important reminder- this is Tower Bridge, NOT London Bridge. London Bridge is the one you see immediately to the right, past the HMS Belfast. It’s not particularly pretty, which is sad, but it's rather new, and the bridge that stood before it WAS incredible. For centuries, London Bridge was the only bridge that crossed the Thames in the city- and it was JAM packed with houses, businesses, and was always incredibly busy, since it was the only point of crossing. During the Great Fire, houses were torn down on it as a fire break to keep the fire from spreading to the Southbank. It went through a lot, and it’s sad we can’t witness it now, but it’s amazing to try and imagine. Once you have properly walked across and admired the views all around (and pinched yourself a bit for being in the greatest city in the world), exit down the steps to river level and head to the left, or East. There is a Starbucks on your right, eventually, and if you look up, I’m sure you see the Shad Thames. This area is now high rent because as with most of London, anywhere that used to be an awful tenement or warehouse is now refurbished high end real-estate. The Shad Thames for many years was warehouses, storehouses, and merchants’ quarters for the ever-growing trading networks and British Empire. The crisscrossing walkways above moved between buildings for greater ease, as the street levels were dirty and busy, and the walkways above would have cut time down significantly for the operators and workman within, getting goods into and out of London on ships docked just below. You can choose to explore this area, or head back to the bridge, under, and start your walk along the Southbank. Continue along past City Hall and linger a bit where it feels right. Have a sit, you won’t regret it. The HMS Belfast is great for anyone interested in wars, military history, or ships! I have not yet been inside, but it’s on my list. I’m sure it’s incredible! I’m sure you haven’t been able to miss the skyscrapers on the North bank, easier to see from this side. London is so great, because most building are small, and it therefore doesn’t feel like a big city. These few bits of the modern world are therefore built in fun and interesting shapes. You will see the Gherkin- the pointy tubular one with triangle glass shaping- a really unique icon. The Walkie Talkie is out in front- with the curved rectangular face that slightly bows out. If you want a great view, you can go to the top for free- with a ticket from online- to the Sky Garden, which looks as it sounds. There are tropical plants, restaurants, and as you can imagine, incredible views. Buildings keep popping up though the years and you know the Brits will continue to have the best names for them. As you continue walking back on the Southbank, Hay’s Galleria will be on your left a bit further down- it’s also converted warehouses, as I’m sure you will continue to pick up on during your walk. London was the capital of a trading empire, and while society has made it more of a digital trading capital now, the history is felt, and it’s now for all of us to enjoy. The Galleria is great to stop and have a drink and sit for a bit. As you continue, you will come to some strange steps that are rather an uncomfortable illusion to climb up. Do so- and you are now at London Bridge. If you want to detour to the Shard, it is situated above London Bridge Station, no small architectural feat. If you are feeling particularly posh, make a reservation for the GONG bar at the top- floor 52 to be exact. Noted to be the highest hotel bar in Europe, it’s a better deal in my opinion if you want the cost of the view normally from the observation deck, but to enjoy it, sitting down, with a drink in hand. Clink your glasses and say a cheers to one of London’s best view experiences. You are welcome.
After the drink, or if you never detoured in the first place, cross the bridge when you can, and walk to a set of steps. You can’t miss the Church to the right of them- Southwark Cathedral. This historic church is centuries old and just hauntingly beautiful. Walk down the steps. Depending on what day you have done this, you are likely to now be in Borough Market. A bustling food heaven- with smells from every continent and culture, it’s hard to resist not buying something delectable. Wander through and take your time if you want. It’s likely to be very busy. Follow the cathedral around to its front and take the street to the left. Ahead, you can’t miss the old ship in front of you. You have wandered back on the Thames path, and I must tell you, I’m already done with part one (LOL). I’m rather impressed with myself, as I have done 90% of this writing from memory. Further proof as to my commitment and love of this city. I have so much left to share- so keep walking, if you are currently following this step by step in the flesh- but those that are there in spirit, I won’t leave you hanging for long.
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At 7:50pm, an hour after I learned of the news, I dropped everything and headed to the palace. I knew I would regret not going, having the incredible opportunity living so close and being here for such an incredibly historic event. It was so strange to ride the tube, knowing life was still happening but with a seismic shift in power. It’s a strange numbness. She’s been a constant in our lives for so long, an unelected life-permanent placement in a world that’s changing rapidly every day. This change in leadership, with the monarchy and the PM, is unprecedented. I walked by copies of the London Standard Newspaper, headlined with some trivial topic, realizing it was old news already- and would be splashed with black and condolence in 24 hours. I’m in London for an insanely historic event- the last Queen of my lifetime, and I get to mourn and share in her life, and earlier in the year, her incredible Jubilee. So much change in one year. Exiting out of Green Park Station, I followed a line of black umbrellas marching down the walkway towards the palace. It was pouring rain. The tears of the world poured on London, in grief, in celebration of a wonderful life. The day was marked in the most British way possible. Dreary clouds and endless sporadic pitter-patter, welcoming after a summer of drought and distress. Surrounding the front gate were people from all walks of life and every country in the world. Flowers rested everywhere on the gates, mourners passed them up to police, where they were laid with honor. People wandered around, in shock, in disbelief, of the event we all knew would come but are still processing. Clapping started and stopped. God save the Queen was sung. Reporters interviewed the crowds for their feelings and thoughts. I’m so glad I experienced my prime in the Elizabethan Era. We lost her the day after the birthday of her namesake, Elizabeth I. Thank you, Ma’am. If you don't know of Hampton Court Palace in it's own right, then it will definitely seem familiar by its historic use. Built by Cardinal Wolsey for himself in the early 1500s, it was then given (not really willingly) to his boss and king, the infamous Henry VIII as Wolsey fell from favor. HCP is a Tudor masterpiece, yet only the Great Hall, Chapel, and some state rooms survive (thankfully at least that) as Tudor styles fell out of fashion and the Baroque palace replaced much of it, built by the Georgians. Today, it's a wonderful clash of two architectures that amazingly work together. This is HCP's true worth- an incredible time capsule of a few hundred years of English power. The palace is a true favorite of mine (I've been three times)- set outside London but easily accessible, it's grandeur and opulence told by a multitude of kings and queens gives us a glimpse into true wealth and how its definition has changed over hundreds of years. To me, palaces like HCP are the epitome of wealth- but society now holds it in large modern houses, sports cars, social media followers, and private holiday locations. How have we been driven to this change? With the fall of many of Europes great monarchs and the rise of the power of the people, kings, palaces, and coronations faded away. As a traditionalist, I long for the old days, but as a realist, I know in many ways, we are better off now. But still- the artistic beauty and decoration found in these times past are a force to be reckoned with. These palaces also represent lost crafts and skills- tapestry weavers, master ceiling painters, intricate wood carvers, and baroque gold sculptors that are dwindling. These wealthy icons supported the arts in ways that are now not respected as much. Kings and emperors had incredible, unbelievable visions that seemed impossible to their courtiers, and still, hundreds of years later, some of these visions still stand, inspiring us all. I don't imagine many of them would ever think their dreams would last so long for us to see. These places wouldn't be here without the constant conservation efforts of people who do respect the past, and thank goodness we aren't short of them! I personally am very driven to be involved in heritage management in my lifetime- whether it be fashion, interiors, art, or education of it, I see it as a part of my future. It's incredibly important that these many places across the globe tell stories of the past to better understand where we are now, but also revel in the glory of amazing ancestors who did their best to enjoy life, just like us. Beside the many interiors and grand staircases, HCP boasts many gardens of different styles- including the oldest puzzle maze in England, the Yew Tree gardens (Downton Abbey and Belgravia famous, to name just two), and the Privy Garden and Fountain Court, recently featured in Netflix's Bridgerton Season 2. As a massive Bridgerton fan myself, it's insane to walk in the footsteps of not just monarchs, but also great filming locations with captivating storylines. There is barely a period drama I haven't or wouldn't watch, so these locations all across the UK hold double love and fascination for me, in historical and cinematic obsession. You can't keep me away from a historic site for long- they feed my soul in ways I still don't understand. I mean, how is it possible for you to not ooh and ahh in their presence? They drive my passions and thoughts- and it's always so much more joyful to experience them with people who feel the same. History is the coolest thing there is- and nobody can tell me otherwise. On everyones list when visiting London, since its creation, has naturally been the glorious and sacred Westminster Abbey. Time has shifted the purpose of societies visit- for hundreds of years, it was a sacred place of pilgrimage, worship, prayers, coronations, and weddings. Now, while all those things still happen, nothing keeps it going and the numbers in and out like tourism.
I've been to the Abbey three times now- and while it was just as amazing every time I come back- this time gave me a new perspective. I've visited about 50 churches at least in the UK and Europe now- all historic in their own right, and as a Christian I view them in a completely different light to those who aren't religious. Smaller houses with less fame are places of quiet and solace. They are the path less taken, and I can say that when you have seen one, you haven't seen them all. Every one is unique and holds different treasures from the next. The styles might be similar, but they are all masterpieces none the less- considering the times they were built in. But I diverge. The Abbey, like Notre Dame- is so famous and legendary- that tourists now, more than ever- seem to view it as an attraction more than a place of God, as most communities now don't hold God at the center of life. With the constant secularization of society, tourists walk into these houses with a purpose to check it off their list- rather that respect it for its true purpose. I understand that it is hard to respect the nature of it when you have had no contact with faith and therefore don't know the customs or practices- but shouldn't there be a line drawn in how to inherently act in such a sacred space? This trip, I had the chance to visit the grave of St. Edward the Confessor- the founder of the Abbey and one of Englands first monarchs. His grave is in the holiest part of the church- behind the high alter- and its so fragile that only few can see it- for prayers under permission. I happened to visit when there was such a call to prayer- and therefore witnessed the incredible space. It was small and crescent shaped, surrounded in glory by the coffins of some of Englands earliest kings and queens, the Plantagenets- and in the center, the tomb of Edward himself. The ancient stone was browned beyond compare- from centuries of people touching and praying at its base. While I'm not from Church of England, it's similar enough to my denomination that I said the prayers and reveled in the sight of such a holy place- one that people of all walks of life have visited for almost a thousand years. As a history buff- sitting next to Eleanor of Castile and Henry V, in the holiest part of this grand Abbey, was beyond words. Understandably, this area is not for all tourists, unless they ask. Rightly so, the Abbey must protect this space at all costs- but walking into the alcoves of the rest of the church- and their incredibly worn flooring and stone- you wonder at the cost of tourism. These places bring people into contact with God, when they might have no contact beforehand- but they also create damage beyond repair- at young children running their hands over centuries old relics. My own pilgrimage is to the tomb of Elizabeth I- a true place of inspiration and reflection both. As I sat and took a moment to think of her legacy- two children leaned up against the iron rail and fiddled with the intricate roses on the gate- all while the parents watched on. Where has the respect gone? Ironically, beneath her grave, along with her sister Mary, there reads a plaque- underscoring the sacrifice and terror of the Reformation- and how England was at it's most divided be religion. For a quick recap- both Queens' father, the infamous Henry VIII, spilt with the Catholic Church and created the Church of England so we could divorce is first wife, Katherine of Aragon, Mary's mother, to marry Anne Boleyn, Elizabeth's mother. This spilt sent shockwaves through the world and changed the face of England forever. The struggle between the two daughters was fierce( Mary Catholic, Elizabeth Protestant)- as they both had their time on the throne. Lucky for many, Mary's was short- as her reign was marked with malicious bloodshed to bring Catholicism back and kill off Protestants. The plaque commemorates this awful time for England, and also brings to light the change in morals and values. It takes us back to a time when faith was so strong in the lives of the many that people willingly died for it. While no doubt this still happens now in less enlightened nations, this concept brings about a double edged sword- we have freedom of religion and there is tolerance for all faiths in most of society, but at the same time, we have come to disrespect the values millions died for. Many of us have never had to live through such a turbulent world. With education and deference, this can be brought back, for the good of the preservation of history, and hopefulness that it doesn't repeat itself in such a bloody way. All grievances aside, I can safely say that I'm extremely glad for my faith upbringing- not only as the core of my values, but also out of respect for religion. One day, when I get to visit a mosque, as I would love to experience- I might not know the customs, but I would ask questions and hold the highest regard to respect their ways. If the world keeps falling by the wayside- where will we be without this common sense of decency? The church has become an antiquated object to most- an attraction that seems to fall more into the past as our values and lives change. Having every faith that people will preserve this for generations to come is the best we can pray for. What is London theater without Shakespeare's Globe?
Last night, I had my first Globe experience. Ok, factor in the fact that it was closed for half the time I lived here, and this isn't as shocking. I mean, its not like I haven't kept myself busy with other things... Needless to say, it was a DELIGHT. I highly recommend it as an event for everyone. I got tickets seated, on the lower gallery, which was actually a good seat. I also ordered a cushion... something I highly recommend. The Globe was rebuilt as an almost perfect replica to the Globe in Will's day, and very close to its original spot. It's a modern Elizabethan masterpiece- intimate, but still grand in its own way. The circular build and open air design make it fun, engaging, and unique. The standing tickets fill the floor in neatly, almost as a substitution for an orchestra, and therefore makes the stage and audience one-which leads to the interactive acting the Globe is known for. The style of the performances are spectacular. The production I saw, Henry VIII (I know, big surprise), was modernized in costume and props. Normally, I would avoid this as I am traditional, but it was fantastic. The royalty stuck to purple joggers, suits, historically inspired dresses, and wide shorts. My favorite addition, on top of these modern clothes, was the all too familiar codpiece- the triangular, and sometimes lewdly shaped attachment to the mens groin, drawing the eye and well... making assumptions. Us historical dress nerds in the audience had a proper laugh at this. Those who didn't know this historical piece of treasure, well, I'm not sure where your mind went, but I (hope) you got the gist. The members of the Church stuck to their red robes, but extras wore mixes of rag corsets and adidas-striped joggers. The few musical pieces were exceptional-modernizing poetry into a beautiful tribute to the females of today, while telling the stories of females of the past. The general ambience was very bawdy and coarse, but that's the nature of the Globe. This paralleled wonderfully with the actors mingling with the standing audience, and asking for our yays and nays, and laughter. It ended with the arrival of Elizabeth, daughter of Henry and Anne, and a foreshadowing of her glory and brilliance despite her fathers desperation for her to be a boy. It was the ultimate poetic female justice- to my main muse and forever inspiration. All hail Gloriana. It was a proper production for the setting, and I left realizing it wasn't what I thought it would be, but even better. I will be going back, if not for the beautiful setting, but for a history injection and a laugh. |
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