Hayley's London List, Part I

One of my top fave photos in London. I can remember how that sunset felt on my face. The moment was golden.

              While I’m proud to say that most of my resolutions have been fulfilled so far, the one where I write one blog a week has yet to be fulfilled until now. And I think it opportune to start 2023 with my long-awaited London list. I’ve been in London for three years, and I’ve seen and done a lot. While Instagram has been the photographic proof of this journey, it’s high time I also write it all down. So I’m finally doing it- jam packed into one, large list and comprehensive guide. Ok, so that might be overreaching. It’s likely going to have a few parts…
                                               
​ Here it is world: Hayley’s London List, Part I.
 
     I should start by saying that since I’m inclined towards the history, arts, culture, and creative side of things, the list is long, and catered to my tastes and interests. London has a plethora of these topics. Not everything will be for you, but I hope you can pick and choose to make your own way about when you visit, or even see your own backyard differently, fellow Londoners!  There’s lots to see that makes this city the best in the world- touristy or not. (And p.s.- the touristy bits are (almost) all totally worth it too- London wouldn’t be London without them!)     

​        I think it fitting to start with a few icons- the Tower of London and Tower Bridge. Fittingly, these are the beginning of my recommended walking tour for anyone, Londoner or first-time tourist alike, to see many of the top sights- in one afternoon if you are smacked for time. Situated right next to each other, these two landmarks form the most incredible marriage into the historic skyline, and what makes it all the more incredible is that they are not similar in age at all. While the Tower dates from 1066 and William the Conqueror (more on that in a minute), the Bridge is from the late 1800s- a staggering 800 years apart. The Bridge looks older, and you naturally assume it is due to the grey stone medievalesque towers that blend so well with the Tower, but the steel blue beams are what give it away as a product of the Industrial Revolution. This perfect cohesion of old and new, and its placement next to one of the oldest and most historic places in the world, is what makes this site and these two structures beyond captivating and enthralling to us now, and throughout time.

Upon entering the Tower. Who knew tan stone could be so glorious.

Me, wandering down mysterious passageways that are thrilling, aesthetically pleasing, and very Instagrammable.

           While I will continue with the walking tour in a bit- I want to give the Tower it’s moment. I could write a whole post just on the tower, but I have decided to keep it short(er) and sweet right here. My advice on the Tower of London: go inside. You will not regret it. Give yourself at least a full afternoon, if not the day. There is something for everyone’s interests. Massive, glorious, and the definition of historic, you enter the Tower through a gate dating back to 1280- from across a bridge over a moat, like we all dreamed about as kids. Already, I’m guessing you are intrigued. You are soon transported into another world. Besides the occasional bin or modern signage, everything you are surrounded by is OLD. Stone archways, stone towers, cobblestone roads, iron gates, stone steps, archers’ peepholes, and ok, the occasional modern drainpipe- but also, ancient ones too. Makes you feel like Friar Tuck and Robin Hood are about to pop around the corner, or maybe even greedy King John.

           The expert curators guide you through tower by tower, room by room, dishing you story upon story and recreating spaces best to certain times. If those walls could talk, they would have better stories than any of us. The sheer size of the place- including the multiple wall sections, their depth, and and length of wall walks connecting it all would have dwarfed other buildings around it for most of history. Each little bit was added on through time, creating the most incredible architectural wonder of 1000 years, all on one site. At the center of it all is The White Tower, the oldest piece of the puzzle. Built by William the Conqueror, the disputed first officially King of England and the beginning of the monarchy that we have had since, built it as a stronghold in the late 1000s, after he won his throne and united the English nations.  Walking up the monstrous wooden steps, and slowly walking through that Tower- I have goosebumps writing this. This Tower has stood for 1000 years much unchanged, with the world and structure that growing and changing all around it. It makes it magnificent and awe-inspiring to all who gaze at it, walk through it, touch the timbers within, and smell the history surrounding it.

Walking the walls, and savoring the moments. The mix of green trees and historic stone is just crazy beautiful.

The White Tower. Enough said.

Me, happier visiting anything older than America.

  If that doesn’t do it for you, how do jewels sound? Incredible, rare, shining, and glorious state crowns, tiaras, scepters, orbs, dinnerware, ceremonial pieces of priceless value, most of which are surrounded by people movers, so you don’t breathe on them too long, and so that everyone gets their turn. Hit with glittering lights, every piece sparkles with centuries of glamour and secret conversations we will never know. The space was built to impress. Still not quite your cup of tea? In the courtyard, which as it happens is gorgeous and tranquil, a spot marks the countless beheadings and executions that look place over the centuries. In a small chapel behind, many of these victims, as well as many people of importance, are buried. You can just feel an incredible presence here, even if you aren’t religious. That chapel has seen it all. If you have any unanswered questions, the best part of the Tower awaits- the Beefeaters.

Having a chat with the Beefeaters. They are always really nice and love taking photos. Wish I could wear their outfit everyday.

           Formally called the Yeoman of the Guard, they are blessed with the task of guarding the tower and have for centuries. They wear uniforms designed from Henry VIII himself, and although made of modern materials, they are still as accurate as possible and make the place the most authentic it could be. They add a living historical presence there, as they also literally live on the grounds with their families and have to have 26 years distinguished military service to have the post. The most incredible honor I can think of (that almost makes me want to join the military), and they are there to tell you stories, share histories, and make the Tower what it is. The whole experience is a must, and if I haven’t convinced you with all this, I don’t know what else to say. Oh, maybe it’s the views that will do it for you? A picture says a thousand words that I can’t, so see attached.

Old and new. Views and Views.

The red guards, making London more surreal. I'm a massive lover of Tudor architecture, aka those black and white buildings.

Another favorite I've taken. I love the green, the blue, and the history.

      ​I think it’s time we continue… and while I’m sure I’ve already convinced you to visit London if you haven’t, I’ve only just begun. Oof.
 
            Upon leaving the Tower, try to exit onto the river. The Riverfront here is so nice and picturesque, with City Hall (the egg-shaped building in front of you), the Bridge, the HMS Belfast (the bloody massive ship you can’t miss), the Shard (the big pointy skyscraper that dwarfs all), and of course, the unmissable Thames. Enjoy the view for a while with fish and chips from a little popup cart or food truck. (Try) to process the history you have just encountered and prepare for loads more (it seems impossible, but you don’t have a choice). Walk towards the Bridge and there should be steps carved in that take you up to road level. Take in the gorgeous blue beams and slowly cross to the Southbank, taking your time. An important reminder- this is Tower Bridge, NOT London Bridge. London Bridge is the one you see immediately to the right, past the HMS Belfast. It’s not particularly pretty, which is sad, but it's rather new, and the bridge that stood before it WAS incredible. For centuries, London Bridge was the only bridge that crossed the Thames in the city- and it was JAM packed with houses, businesses, and was always incredibly busy, since it was the only point of crossing. During the Great Fire, houses were torn down on it as a fire break to keep the fire from spreading to the Southbank. It went through a lot, and it’s sad we can’t witness it now, but it’s amazing to try and imagine.

I love these food trucks. Maybe overpriced, but so cute and fun!

Always ready for a Tower Bridge photo op.

          Once you have properly walked across and admired the views all around (and pinched yourself a bit for being in the greatest city in the world), exit down the steps to river level and head to the left, or East. There is a Starbucks on your right, eventually, and if you look up, I’m sure you see the Shad Thames. This area is now high rent because as with most of London, anywhere that used to be an awful tenement or warehouse is now refurbished high end real-estate. The Shad Thames for many years was warehouses, storehouses, and merchants’ quarters for the ever-growing trading networks and British Empire. The crisscrossing walkways above moved between buildings for greater ease, as the street levels were dirty and busy, and the walkways above would have cut time down significantly for the operators and workman within, getting goods into and out of London on ships docked just below. You can choose to explore this area, or head back to the bridge, under, and start your walk along the Southbank. Continue along past City Hall and linger a bit where it feels right. Have a sit, you won’t regret it.

The incredible HMS Belfast, positioned next to the Bridge. London has the most insane and beautiful mixes of cultures and histories.

    The HMS Belfast is great for anyone interested in wars, military history, or ships! I have not yet been inside, but it’s on my list. I’m sure it’s incredible! I’m sure you haven’t been able to miss the skyscrapers on the North bank, easier to see from this side. London is so great, because most building are small, and it therefore doesn’t feel like a big city. These few bits of the modern world are therefore built in fun and interesting shapes. You will see the Gherkin- the pointy tubular one with triangle glass shaping- a really unique icon. The Walkie Talkie is out in front- with the curved rectangular face that slightly bows out. If you want a great view, you can go to the top for free- with a ticket from online- to the Sky Garden, which looks as it sounds. There are tropical plants, restaurants, and as you can imagine, incredible views. Buildings keep popping up though the years and you know the Brits will continue to have the best names for them. As you continue walking back on the Southbank, Hay’s Galleria will be on your left a bit further down- it’s also converted warehouses, as I’m sure you will continue to pick up on during your walk. London was the capital of a trading empire, and while society has made it more of a digital trading capital now, the history is felt, and it’s now for all of us to enjoy. The Galleria is great to stop and have a drink and sit for a bit.

The *free* views from the Sky Garden, totally worth it, especially on a lovely day!

The tropical plants, glass greenhouse penthouse, and restaurant/bar with a view mix is so London.

             As you continue, you will come to some strange steps that are rather an uncomfortable illusion to climb up. Do so- and you are now at London Bridge. If you want to detour to the Shard, it is situated above London Bridge Station, no small architectural feat. If you are feeling particularly posh, make a reservation for the GONG bar at the top- floor 52 to be exact. Noted to be the highest hotel bar in Europe, it’s a better deal in my opinion if you want the cost of the view normally from the observation deck, but to enjoy it, sitting down, with a drink in hand. Clink your glasses and say a cheers to one of London’s best view experiences. You are welcome.
​            After the drink, or if you never detoured in the first place, cross the bridge when you can, and walk to a set of steps. You can’t miss the Church to the right of them- Southwark Cathedral. This historic church is centuries old and just hauntingly beautiful. Walk down the steps. Depending on what day you have done this, you are likely to now be in Borough Market. A bustling food heaven- with smells from every continent and culture, it’s hard to resist not buying something delectable. Wander through and take your time if you want. It’s likely to be very busy. Follow the cathedral around to its front and take the street to the left. Ahead, you can’t miss the old ship in front of you. You have wandered back on the Thames path, and I must tell you, I’m already done with part one (LOL). I’m rather impressed with myself, as I have done 90% of this writing from memory. Further proof as to my commitment and love of this city. I have so much left to share- so keep walking, if you are currently following this step by step in the flesh- but those that are there in spirit, I won’t leave you hanging for long.

The view from the Gong Bar atop the Shard, on a rainy evening. Watching trains come and go, Tower Bridge lit up, and sipping a G&T. Ahh.